Chinese Algae Eater

1 02 2009

Chinese Algae Eater Factoids

Origin

Fast streams in India and Thailand

Maximum Size

6+ inches

Temperature

Room temperature fine

Water

Very flexible

Attitude

Likes to taste tank mates

Potential Threat

Gets very aggressive as it grows larger

Security

Likes to hide sometimes

Foods

Flakes, algae, aquarium slime, fish slime

Breeding

Not likely but not impossible

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Chinese algae eaters are not real beauties, but the gold ones do look better.

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Small Chinese algae eaters going into a tetra tank.  Mediums going into a cichlid tank.

Origins: Chinese algae eaters come from India and Thailand. Wait a minute. You mean they don’t come from China? Next thing you’ll be saying is they don’t eat algae. Well, they do like fish food and fish slime better than algae.

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When they get a good grip, you can hardly pour them out of a catching cup.

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Some are pretty.  Note that “hole” at the top of his gill cover.

Hickey Fish: If you want a fish that gives your other fish hickies on their first date, then you want a (so-called) Chinese (so-called) algae eater. Little guys suck hickies. The big guys suck holes.

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You can find marble Chinese algae eaters also.

Appeal: Chinese algae eaters are cheap and actually eat algae at first. The little suckers look cute and everyone wants one for their little tanks. Once they discover fish food, they forget about algae. In a tank with no vulnerable or belligerent bunkees,  they devour algae voraciously and grow fast.

Aqualand History: We went a couple decades without having the little beasties in our tanks. Then we noticed people buy them everywhere else because they want them. Who are we to stand in the way of what our customers want. So we sell them now – at least the gold ones (and the marble ones).

Fast Growers: As they grow, Chinese algae eaters try to run off all their competition. They hate each other and anything else that even resembles their own kind – such as sharks and loaches.

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Look out for those hickey-making lips.

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This two-inch Chinese algae eater thrives in a tank with dozens of American cichlids.

Worst Tank Mates: Slow-moving fish and flat-sided fish are loved by Chinese algae eaters. You’ll see them “kissing” goldfish, gouramis, and angels constantly.

Good Tank Mates: Chinese algae eaters have a hard time catching small, fast-moving fishes. Danios, barbs, and tetras survive fairly well with them.

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Here’s a couple of large Chinese algae eaters getting along with African cichlids.

Better Tank Mates: When Chinese algae eaters get large, throw them in with your cichlids – preferably African cichlids. They can take turns “kissing” each other. We take in large ones at Aqualand all the time. In cichlid tanks, they like to hide in the rock work. They come out when they feel like playing tag.

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Nice looking fish.

Best Tank Mates: Chinese algae eaters rarely bother turtles and crayfish.

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This guy’s about four inches.

Size: Supposedly Chinese algae eaters grow huge. We’ve never seen any exceed six inches, but we’ve seen dozens over five inches.

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Most Chinese algae eaters retail at 1.5 inches.

Colors: Gold Chinese algae eaters look pretty neat. They’re still nasty. The marble ones look neat and act nasty.

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Those holes in their gill covers enable them to breathe in fast water.

Jumpers: Any fish that comes from fast-flowing streams can leap out of your tank. Covers yours securely.

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Nice rasping lips for eating algae and pestering angelfish.

Sucker Mouth: In addition to passing out free hickies, their sucker mouths enable them to hold onto rocks in swift water. It also enables them to buzz thru your algae crop fairly quickly. Think of Chinese algae eaters as “tank temps.” Remove them after they remove your algae.

Foods: After your Chinese algae eaters devour your algae, start feeding them well if you intend to keep them. As you might suspect, any fish that eats slime off the walls is not a picky eater. And they are fast enough to pester any fish that passes by. Keep yours well fed.

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Males grow funny growths on their faces starting at about four inches.

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Different male Chinese algae eater.

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Bigger males get kind of ugly in the face.

Sexing: Males develop breeding “horns” on their heads. Females get heftier. They need plenty of room if you want them to get along.  Add some caves, crevices, and crannies to increase their compatibility.

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At around three inches, the gold ones are actually pretty as well as mean.

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Give them something to munch on besides their tank mates.

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Vacation blocks make an excellent food for any of the algae eaters.

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Keep your Chinese algae eaters fed or they will eat fish.

Last Words: Since we’re seeing different color versions these days, someone out there is spawning them. Chances are, you’re going to need a powerhead or other high-flow water moving device to succeed. And it couldn’t hurt to cool them briefly first. LA.

Sumber:

http://aqualandpetsplus.com/Oddball,%20Chinese%20Algae%20Eater.htm





Balashark

1 02 2009

Bala Shark Factoids

Origin

Thailand, Malaysia (Borneo and Sumatra)

Maximum Size

14 inches (10 to 12 more likely)

Housing

Longer the better

Security

Loves planted aquaria. Prefers to school.

Temperature

Prefers 75 to 80

Attitude

Good eater. Fantastic jumper when scared.

Foods

Loves all foods. Needs vegetable matter.

Water

Prefers pH around neutral. Add salt.


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Adult bala shark.  Over red gravel he reflects pink.  Natural gravels work better.

Origins: Most bala sharks come from Far Eastern fish farms these days. The larger ones cost more than the smaller ones (as we all know). The smaller ones are much more fragile.

Name Origin: “Bala” comes from the first part of their scientific name. “Shark” comes from their high dorsal fin that makes them look like a saltwater shark. Of course, they’re not. Many cyprinids (minnows) with high dorsal fins earn the more sellable name “shark.” The melanopterus in their scientific name means black fins. Some folks call them “silver sharks” due to their basic body color.

Water Conditions: Bala sharks adjust to nearly any water conditions. They will fit into most community tanks with no little bite-size fishes.

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Much better looking when not over red gravel.  Even young bala sharks look sharky.

Appeal: People like bala sharks because they look like sharks. They also get along fine with other fishes. They’re easy to keep and rarely stop patrolling the waters of their aquaria.

Size: Theoretically, these bala sharks grow to 14 inches. However, most people provide too small an aquarium to grow them to their maximum size.

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Nine-inch bala sharks that jumped around in a bucket while being moved.  Really scraped.

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A week later they’re fairly well healed up.

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Another two weeks and they’re good as new — even with this severum.

Jumpers: You’d expect speedy swimmers to jump. Bala sharks will not disappoint you. They will bail from uncovered tanks – especially if spooked. One key jumping time – when you turn on their lights.

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Bala sharks love to hang together.

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Just introduced guy on the right.  He’ll color up in about 10 minutes.

Schoolers: If given a choice these guys like to hang with their buds. The more the merrier. However, they will not pine away when kept as singles. Bala sharks will get better colors and swim more when kept in groups.

Breeding: Rates right in there with stacking B-Bs. You will not likely spawn bala sharks without the spawning hormone extracted from carp and access to very large aquaria or sizable ponds.

Breeding Suggestions: If you wish to try, bala sharks attain maturity at nine inches. The females are chubbier than the sleeker males. Separate the sexes to condition them. Then set up a spawning tank like a large barb spawning setup.

Foods: Bala sharks eagerly eat whatever you feed them. They need foods with algae in them. Balas also love live foods and frozen foods. Color foods will also make them turn darker.

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Bala sharks look good in bare tanks.

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They look better in planted tanks — even with plastic plants.

Gravel Choice: Darker gravels will darken your bala sharks. Light gravels tend to bleach them out.

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Bala sharks love swimming with their own kind and bother no one.

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The more bala sharks the merrier.

Great Tank Mates: Despite their totally different personalities, bala sharks fit well into tanks of angel fish. This silver/black color combo needs other fish to give it color. Add some of the more colorful gouramis. Think of your bala shark as a large, non-nippy barb. Feel free to mix them with any of the other barbs. Do not mix them with large, rough cichlids.  Your shark can out run African cichlids but not forever.

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Size: Theoretically, these bala sharks grow to 14 inches. However, most people provide too small an aquarium to grow them to their maximum size.

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Nine-inch bala sharks that jumped around in a bucket while being moved.  Really scraped.

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A week later they’re fairly well healed up.

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Another two weeks and they’re good as new — even with this severum.

Jumpers: You’d expect speedy swimmers to jump. Bala sharks will not disappoint you. They will bail from uncovered tanks – especially if spooked. One key jumping time – when you turn on their lights.

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Bala sharks love to hang together.

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Just introduced guy on the right.  He’ll color up in about 10 minutes.

Schoolers: If given a choice these guys like to hang with their buds. The more the merrier. However, they will not pine away when kept as singles. Bala sharks will get better colors and swim more when kept in groups.

Breeding: Rates right in there with stacking B-Bs. You will not likely spawn bala sharks without the spawning hormone extracted from carp and access to very large aquaria or sizable ponds.

Breeding Suggestions: If you wish to try, bala sharks attain maturity at nine inches. The females are chubbier than the sleeker males. Separate the sexes to condition them. Then set up a spawning tank like a large barb spawning setup.

Foods: Bala sharks eagerly eat whatever you feed them. They need foods with algae in them. Balas also love live foods and frozen foods. Color foods will also make them turn darker.

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Bala sharks look good in bare tanks.

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They look better in planted tanks — even with plastic plants.

Gravel Choice: Darker gravels will darken your bala sharks. Light gravels tend to bleach them out.

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Bala sharks love swimming with their own kind and bother no one.

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The more bala sharks the merrier.

Great Tank Mates: Despite their totally different personalities, bala sharks fit well into tanks of angel fish. This silver/black color combo needs other fish to give it color. Add some of the more colorful gouramis. Think of your bala shark as a large, non-nippy barb. Feel free to mix them with any of the other barbs. Do not mix them with large, rough cichlids.  Your shark can out run African cichlids but not forever. window.google_render_ad();LA
Note the protruding mouth as this bala shark eats.

Protective Plants: Some aquarists consider bala sharks a shy fish. Add some grassy plants such as Vallisneria or Sagittarius to make them feel more at home. Even plastic plants help.

Disease: Bala sharks catch “ich” fairly easily — especially the baby balas. Always add an ich cure at half strength any time you add new bala sharks to your tank.

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Bala sharks look good in most tanks.

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Net your bala sharks carefully.  Their dorsal fin often catches in your net.

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Pair of six inchers.

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10-incher.  They do get bigger.

Filtration: Bala sharks like clean water. Do not overfeed. Add snails to
clean up the excess. LA.

diambil dari

http://aqualandpetsplus.com/Shark,%20Bala.htm





Elephant Nose Factoids –

1 02 2009

Elephant Nose Factoids

Origin

Murky streams in tropical Africa

Maximum Size

10 to 12 inches

Housing

Lots of hiding places

Security

Likes to hide during the day

Temperature

Prefers 75 to 80o

Attitude

Nocturnal eater. Jumper.

Foods

Very picky eater

Water

Prefers soft water. Add Black Water Tonic.

Enter your search terms

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Nine-inch elephant nose — intriguing looking guy (or gal).

Appeal: Obviously everyone loves elephant noses because of their appearance. They rank among the harder fishes to keep, so we don’t recommend them to most people — especially beginners.

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We’re starting to get more and more CBs (captive-bred) elephant noses these days.

Origins: Not raised on many fish farms, we get most elephant noses directly from the wild. They come from warm, shallow streams in Africa. Were starting to see captive born ones this millennium.

Name Origin: Some guy named Peters found these weird little critters with the elephant noses, so he stuck his name on them.

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Came DOA.  You can see the mouth on this elephant nose.

Elephant Trunk? Look very closely. You’ll notice their mouth at the top of their trunk – not underneath or thru the trunk. Elephant noses do use their “trunk” to poke around looking for worms, not for eating food.


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Baby whales are no-nose elephant noses.

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Most mormyrids (including baby whales) do not clump up like this.

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Or swim around like this.  They prefer to hide during the day.  Under two inches.

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Another two-incher.

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Couple more nearly two-inchers.

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About a three-inch baby whale here.

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Some weird mormyrids come out of Africa.


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This weird elephant nose is called a dolphin.  He gets along with African cichlids.

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Treat these and other mormyrids the exact same way as elephant noses.

Water Conditions: Elephant noses prefer soft water. Adding a teaspoon of salt per gallon always helps.

Size: Very few of the elephant noses grow larger than eight inches. Many top out at six.

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This 10-inch
elephant nose bailed thru a hole in his tank cover.  It’s doubtful we can save him.

Jumpers: Keep your elephant noses covered. These darn critters like to jump out.  They like to jump most when they feel good.

Huge Brains: For their size, that is. They’re supposedly among the smartest of all the fishes. You’d think a fish with any brains at all would not jump out of their water.

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Nosers sidle right under driftwood ledges.  They like “hiding places.”

Electric Fish: Not as powerful as the electric eel or electric catfish (or MidAmerican Energy), the elephant nose uses its weak current to locate tasty morsels. You could pick him up barehanded – unlike those other guys, especially MidAmerican Energy.

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Several nosers?  PVC tubes make instant condos for your elephant noses.  They still argue.

Not Schoolers: Electric fishes just don’t like other electric fishes. Elephant noses dislike other nosers and most of the knife fishes.

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Big bunches o
f elephant noses do get along together.  Large tanks help.

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In wholesaler’s tanks, you can sometimes see them pile up like this.

Breeding: Forget it.

Foods: Forget feeding them flakes at first. Most new elephant noses will starve before even trying flakes or pellets. They mucho prefer live blackworms. Frozen tubifex worms, brine shrimp, and glass worms will also work.  Many will eventually convert to flake foods.

Feeding: Since new elephant noses prefer the night shift, feed them at night – right before you turn their lights off. If you feed them during the day, your other fish will devour their preferred foods.  After your elephant nose has been around a while, he catches on to your feeding schedule.

Lighting: Elephant noses prefer a low light aquarium. Add some floating plants to subdue their lighting.

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Feel free to mix large elephant noses with normal community fish.

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Mix small elephant noses with smaller community fishes.

Good Tank Mates: Nosers cost more than the average fish. That’s good or more people would get them and kill them. New nosers mix pretty well with other community fishes as long as you feed them in the dark.  When it comes to eating, lots of elephant noses stand in the back row.

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In a nearly bare tank, elephant noses will cluster about plants.

Protective Plants: Add grassy plants such as Vallisneria or Sagittarius to make your elephant noses feel more at home. Even plastic plants help. So do pieces of driftwood.

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Caves/Ledges. Nosers want to hide days and scoop the loop at night.  Provide a cave or ledge for your elephant noses to lurk in.

Disease: Elephant noses that catch “ich” will probably die – not from the disease, but from the medication. Use any cure with them very carefully. The Malachite Green in most ich cures will kill them. Malachite harms most “scaleless” fishes.


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Here’s different large elephant noses.

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And here’s a small school of them in a 55.

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And a single specimen.

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And here’s one called a double-nose elephant nose (at twice the price).

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Another view of the same guy.

Last Word: Keep their water well filtered. Dirty water causes elephant noses (and you) many problems. LA.

Diambil Dari

http://aqualandpetsplus.com/Oddball,%20Elephant%20Nose..htm