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Elephant Nose Factoids –

February 1, 2009

Elephant Nose Factoids

Origin

Murky streams in tropical Africa

Maximum Size

10 to 12 inches

Housing

Lots of hiding places

Security

Likes to hide during the day

Temperature

Prefers 75 to 80o

Attitude

Nocturnal eater. Jumper.

Foods

Very picky eater

Water

Prefers soft water. Add Black Water Tonic.

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Nine-inch elephant nose — intriguing looking guy (or gal).

Appeal: Obviously everyone loves elephant noses because of their appearance. They rank among the harder fishes to keep, so we don’t recommend them to most people — especially beginners.

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We’re starting to get more and more CBs (captive-bred) elephant noses these days.

Origins: Not raised on many fish farms, we get most elephant noses directly from the wild. They come from warm, shallow streams in Africa. Were starting to see captive born ones this millennium.

Name Origin: Some guy named Peters found these weird little critters with the elephant noses, so he stuck his name on them.

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Came DOA.  You can see the mouth on this elephant nose.

Elephant Trunk? Look very closely. You’ll notice their mouth at the top of their trunk – not underneath or thru the trunk. Elephant noses do use their “trunk” to poke around looking for worms, not for eating food.


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Baby whales are no-nose elephant noses.

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Most mormyrids (including baby whales) do not clump up like this.

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Or swim around like this.  They prefer to hide during the day.  Under two inches.

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Another two-incher.

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Couple more nearly two-inchers.

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About a three-inch baby whale here.

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Some weird mormyrids come out of Africa.


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This weird elephant nose is called a dolphin.  He gets along with African cichlids.

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Treat these and other mormyrids the exact same way as elephant noses.

Water Conditions: Elephant noses prefer soft water. Adding a teaspoon of salt per gallon always helps.

Size: Very few of the elephant noses grow larger than eight inches. Many top out at six.

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This 10-inch
elephant nose bailed thru a hole in his tank cover.  It’s doubtful we can save him.

Jumpers: Keep your elephant noses covered. These darn critters like to jump out.  They like to jump most when they feel good.

Huge Brains: For their size, that is. They’re supposedly among the smartest of all the fishes. You’d think a fish with any brains at all would not jump out of their water.

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Nosers sidle right under driftwood ledges.  They like “hiding places.”

Electric Fish: Not as powerful as the electric eel or electric catfish (or MidAmerican Energy), the elephant nose uses its weak current to locate tasty morsels. You could pick him up barehanded – unlike those other guys, especially MidAmerican Energy.

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Several nosers?  PVC tubes make instant condos for your elephant noses.  They still argue.

Not Schoolers: Electric fishes just don’t like other electric fishes. Elephant noses dislike other nosers and most of the knife fishes.

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Big bunches o
f elephant noses do get along together.  Large tanks help.

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In wholesaler’s tanks, you can sometimes see them pile up like this.

Breeding: Forget it.

Foods: Forget feeding them flakes at first. Most new elephant noses will starve before even trying flakes or pellets. They mucho prefer live blackworms. Frozen tubifex worms, brine shrimp, and glass worms will also work.  Many will eventually convert to flake foods.

Feeding: Since new elephant noses prefer the night shift, feed them at night – right before you turn their lights off. If you feed them during the day, your other fish will devour their preferred foods.  After your elephant nose has been around a while, he catches on to your feeding schedule.

Lighting: Elephant noses prefer a low light aquarium. Add some floating plants to subdue their lighting.

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Feel free to mix large elephant noses with normal community fish.

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Mix small elephant noses with smaller community fishes.

Good Tank Mates: Nosers cost more than the average fish. That’s good or more people would get them and kill them. New nosers mix pretty well with other community fishes as long as you feed them in the dark.  When it comes to eating, lots of elephant noses stand in the back row.

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In a nearly bare tank, elephant noses will cluster about plants.

Protective Plants: Add grassy plants such as Vallisneria or Sagittarius to make your elephant noses feel more at home. Even plastic plants help. So do pieces of driftwood.

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Caves/Ledges. Nosers want to hide days and scoop the loop at night.  Provide a cave or ledge for your elephant noses to lurk in.

Disease: Elephant noses that catch “ich” will probably die – not from the disease, but from the medication. Use any cure with them very carefully. The Malachite Green in most ich cures will kill them. Malachite harms most “scaleless” fishes.


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Here’s different large elephant noses.

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And here’s a small school of them in a 55.

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And a single specimen.

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And here’s one called a double-nose elephant nose (at twice the price).

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Another view of the same guy.

Last Word: Keep their water well filtered. Dirty water causes elephant noses (and you) many problems. LA.

Diambil Dari

http://aqualandpetsplus.com/Oddball,%20Elephant%20Nose..htm

One Comment leave one →
  1. September 5, 2009 12:14 pm

    Elephantnose fish navigate using electrical signals. An electrical field is created around the fish’s body by modified muscles, and disturbances in this field are detected by receptor cells.

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